Why no wax chemistry has appeared?

No-wax chemistry is a clear reaction of the wax industry on the extremely low life time of liquid waxes based on dissolved waxes. 

The life time of waxes applied on the ski base is quite low in general. Due to very weak chemical bonds between waxes and PE, waxes need to rely on mechanical retention inside the ski base. Only waxes which can penetrate the ski base – or better: free cavities in the amorphous regions – can be retained more strongly providing longer life time.

Waxes sticking to the very top surface of the ski base – with no retention inside the ski base – can last for an extremely short time.

 To make waxes penetrate the ski base, more pre-conditions need to be given:

•  ski base material needs to have free cavities to take waxes
• heat needs to be introduced to increase the mobility of ski base material and liquidize the waxes
• wax filled cavities need to shrink after cooling to retain wax mechanically

·          As you can see the standard liquid waxes where the gliding agent is dissolved in a fast-evaporating carrier do fulfil only a part of one condition needed for a strong mechanical retention = they are liquid…that’s all…

The idea that liquid waxes can penetrate the ski base material due to the liquid status does not work in reality because especially the heat induced effects are completely missing.

To replace the heat approach and keep liquid waxes application as simple as possible, alternatives have been searched for to improve the mechanical retention of liquid waxes and thus their life time.

The clear answer is no-wax chemistry = gliding agents in a carrier which helps to penetrate the ski base.

To penetrate the ski base etching or swelling approach is often used. To fix the gliding agent in and on the ski base special carriers are used which can connect with both PE and gliding agents.

No wax chemistry is the approach how to keep liquid gliding agents application simple and to achieve a reasonable life time of liquid gliding agents… With waxes it is – however – hardly possible, that’s why no-wax chemistry…

 

What is the main difference between the cheaper and more expensive liquid gliders

Normally the main difference is the life time / stability / wear resistance… in other words how long the improved gliding properties can last under given snow and weather conditions.

 

Normally the cheaper liquids last on the ski base for a much shorter time and therefore provide a much shorter improvement of gliding features.

 

Why? Most of the cheaper liquid gliders are solutions containing two main components: active ingredients dissolved in a carrier. The carrier is responsible for liquid state of the solution, enables application on the ski base in the liquid form. After application the carrier evaporates more or less fast and leaves only the solid component on the ski base.

 

The only way how this solid component sticks to the surface of the ski base is the mechanical retention in the microscopic irregularities and roughness of the ski base surfaces. The chemical bonds are extremely weak.

 

How cheaper liquid gliders can be identified?

 

·      You need to shake the bottle before you properly to mix the active ingredients with the carrier.

·      Often sponge head is used for application.

·      After application you can see a wet film on the ski base.

·      They dry quite fast (5 to 10 min.)

·      You need to brush them softly with nylon brush.

 

Normally the more expensive liquid gliders perform a bit better, but especially last longer, in other words provide the improved gliding features for a longer time.

 

Why? Most of the more expensive liquid gliders contain a component which actively disrupts the surface of the ski base in a gentle way, in other words which allows the active substances in the glider to soak or to be integrated into the ski base. In other words: more expensive gliders create their own irregularities or micro roughness for better integration into the ski base.

 

How more sophisticated liquid gliders can be identified (except for they are more expensive)?

 

·      Normally they are sprays – you spray them or apply with fleece.

·      After application they often create small bobbles on the surface.

·      They need more time to dry / be integrated (normally 25 min. to 30 min.)

·      Often they are not brushed.